Hyderabad truly surprised me with its amazing food culture. Once I was done going to the Golconda Fort and seeing the Charminar; it was all I wanted to do! I went to Hyderabad during the holy month of Ramadan, so this meant that in the evenings the old city streets were alive and kicking. There were so many people doing their Eid shopping, it was quite chaotic.

Moving from one place to another was quite a task; we spent most of our time trying to use Ola/Uber/autorickshaws combined with a bit of walking. Some places even had the food sold out by the time we got there! However, feeling the festive atmosphere amongst the bustling crowd was not only interesting; I was quite amazed by the level of activity so late into the night. My guides were two locals who were brought up in that part of the city; they knew the place inside out, so I am incredibly proud of this curation. My only advice to you before I start my list is: Mind your belongings and preferably walk/travel in a group.

So here goes!

Stop 1: Shahi Ghouse

What to eat: Haleem

Hyderabad food trail|Shahi Ghouse|Haleem
Greasy, wholesome and satisfying

Though I agree it’s not the prettiest of foods, haleem is a tender semi solid meat (mutton/beef mostly) made with wheat in a wholesome mixture. This is dressed in cashews and fried onions. It’s a very wholesome dish and is soul-satisfying. The good thing about Shahi Ghouse is that they have multiple branches all over the city; so you can definitely find one next to your hotel.

Stop 2: Chicha’s

What to eat: Pathar ka gosht, Mutton Shikampur & Almond Kund

This place is actually apparently owned by the Nawab (King) of Hyderabad and has some delicious kebabs. You have to try the 3 dishes mentioned above. ‘Pathar ka gosht’ is a mutton dish where the meat is quite literally grilled on stones. The result is : flavourful, tender meat morsels that just evaporate in your mouth. The mutton shikampur is a delicious patty that is very soft and delicious. The almond kund is a very hearty dessert, that has a custard-y feel. It’s very rich and fragrant.

Almond kund|Hyderabad food trail
The very rich almond kund with edible silver foil
Nayaab|Pathar ka ghosht | Hyderabad
How the ‘patthar ka gosht’ is cooked

Stop 3: Bade miyan kebabs

What to eat: All the kebabs under the sun

Fo’real though. The beef and mutton kebabs are brilliantly made. It’s right next door to Chicha’s so save your appetite for more!

Bademiyan kebabs from Aneesha Rai on Vimeo.

Stop 4: Hotel Nayaab

What to drink: Saffron chai (tea)

I love my chai, but I really don’t think I’ve had it any better than at Hotel Nayaab. The tea was made of thick, almost condensed milk and had jaggery undertones. One of the best cups of tea I’ve ever had; possibly in my entire lifetime! Do not miss this!

Saffron Chai|Hyderabad old city food trail
Delicious saffron chai

Stop 5: Nimrah Bakery

What to eat: Osmania Biscuits

Hyderabad is super famous for these salty/buttery biscuits that seem to go well with an ‘Irani chai’. I couldn’t quite spot the difference between a regular Indian chai or Irani chai as they tasted pretty much the same. The Irani chai was exceedingly sweet though. Worth a visit for the biscuits for sure. It’s further down the road from Hotel Nayaab. It’s very close to the Charminar.

Nimrah|HYderabad food trail
Worth it for the Osmania biscuits
Osmania biscuits|Hyderabad food trail
Simple, yet delicious!

Stop 6: Shahdab

What to eat: Biryani

Unfortunately we missed this as the biryani was sold out by the time we got there. However, I’ve received plenty of recommendations from multiple friends that this is THE PLACE for authentic Hyderabadi biryani. Another alternative with pretty good biryani is a place called Bawarchi, but that’s in a different part of town.

Final stop: Milan Juice Center

What to eat: Special fruit custard

Some of you must’ve raised your eyebrows at this. Fruit custard. Really? And I’m gonna say.. yuuuuup. The fruit custard here is rich and delicious and definitely worth a try.

Fruit custard|Hyderabad food trail
Best fruit custard. EVER.
Hyderabad food trail
Better than I thought it would be!

Other honourable mentions:

You may also consider trying ‘paaya’ (mutton soup) at Hotel Nayaab. When you walk on the streets next to the Charminar, you will see vendors sell fritters in a yoghurt based soup called ‘pakora curry’. I skipped that because I like the West Indian/Maharashtrian version much better. Also, the double ka meetha from Hotel Bawarchi is quite delicious as well.

Hope this trail was useful! Let me know any questions you have in the comments below! Ta!

16 Comments

  1. Hyderabad is a food lover’s paradise. My favourites are: haleem, biryani and the chai we get there, especially the kesar chai/ saffron tea. This post made me drool all over again.

  2. This is a great list of foodie joints in Hyderabad. The best part is that you have so many different things covered, including biryani, biscuits, juice and kababs. Must make a note of all these for future.

  3. Awesome post! i don’t think I have seen that much silver foil before – usually it’s gold foil that is all the rage!What a detailed and informative post, thanks for sharing!

  4. Hyderabad is a delight for food lovers. You have covered so much in your post. I think I will love that chai and biscuits and my husband will hover over all those nonveg dishes. Thanks for this compiled up list.

  5. Ah! Hyderabad has one of the best cuisines in India! That said, during Ramadan it may not be for me, as most delicacies are not vegetarian! However Hyderabadi Veg dum biriyani, the Osmania biscuits, and also the Shahi Tukda for dessert is just too divine!!!

Leave a Reply to JanD Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *